France as the Fashion Capital of the World – a Short History
French designers have long created the most renowned and coveted fashion brands in the world. Stylistically innovative and technically exceptional, the outstanding reputation can be traced as far back as the 17th century, a reputation which has only continued to flourish since.
Arguably, the French owe their original chic to the sun King, commonly known as King Louis XIV, whose reign began back in 1643. His lavish taste is evident in the way he dressed, and also in the Palais de Versailles, the expansion of which he commissioned. Louis brought a number of artistic industries, including the textile trade, under the control of the royal court, which became the worldwide arbiter of style. For centuries to come, the highest quality fabric and materials were to be found in France. Not only did Louis lay the foundations for fashion, but also architecture, arts, etiquette, to name a few.
Painting of King Louis XIV - Chateau de Versailles
Moving forward some 100 years, the arrival of haute couture materialized with the ethos of fitting clothing to a specific client. This flourished in the late 19th century – and with the arrival of this mania in France came the arrival of designers from around the world, as France had already thoroughly established its reputation – and with it the best textiles. Leaving designers and stylists such as Charles Frederick Worth no choice but to establish their premises in France. This particular English designer was credited with developing said industry, being the first to open his business on Paris’ Rue De La Paix. Before long Paris had become a thriving fashion hub, with replications being made globally (a trend which has seemingly never ceased).
Of these new up-and-coming fashion houses, Coco Chanel came out arguably the most well known and respected in the industry. Chanel completely reinvented this industry, deconstructing women’s clothing in the eradication of the corset and the introduction of loose, free-flowing designs, whose popularity soared in the 1920s, evolving into the look that defined an era.
Photo of the First Chanel Fashion House - Pinterest
Thus far, with the arrival of the war came the abrupt halt to the growing fashion industry, which significantly deteriorated as a result. Nevertheless, after years of textile shortages the French fashion industry bounced back, with the introduction of Christian Dior. Dior dominated post war fashion with his A-line skirt, making for a feminine and elegant silhouette. In this way, Christian Dior promoted post-war optimism, his quote ‘Europe has had enough of bombs, now it wants to see fireworks’ further encouraged people to look past the horror of the precedent years, and return to enjoying the still-growing fashion industry. Dior’s house was subsequently flooded with orders, and therefore Paris was quickly reinstated as the most fashionable city in the world.
Christian Dior Designs - Met Museum
With the progression of the 20th century, on a global scale rivalry within the fashion world was escalating. With a plethora of designers surfacing, the likes of Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Balmain were two of many to emerge, both who maintained this industry. The most significant challenge to France came during the 60s, which was the growing youth culture over the channel in London, with Mary Quant leading. Quant introduced the mini skirt, which was adored by the increasingly influential youth who promoted emancipation and sexual liberation. Quants designs contrasted greatly to the rather conservative and sophisticated designs produced in Paris – which were now marketed at a considerably older demographic. It is from this period that I see a great divide between French and British culture, more particularly the way in which French and British youth dress – with the south of Britain being more influenced by European trends and looks than the North, which is slower in catching on to these trends.
Photo of the Mary - Quant Mini - Skirt - Fabricated
However, it was perhaps Yves Saint Laurent who had the greatest impact, being responsible for drawing designs and styles from typically male looks and placing them into Women’s wardrobes. His was also the first brand to create ready-to-wear fashion. In doing so, making fashion more accessible for the wider public, as it was no longer solely accessible to the elite within this industry. Today, it is the ready to wear lines which receive far more press coverage than any other collection and are also the most profitable.
