Is the Cargo Trousers Trend a nod to 90s Repurposed Military-Wear?
Words by Sophie Norton
Is your social media also occupied with gen-z-ers in cargo trousers? I thought so. Inspired by the many pockets, zips, and drawstrings I’ve been seeing, I delved into the history behind what can only be described as the ‘military-garb’ style that has been featuring on my FYP.
Helmut Lang’s ‘Bulletproof Vest’, 1997
The incorporation of tactical military-gear into streetwear today is something that has been a subculture of fashion for a few decades. Ask any expert and they’ll identify Helmut Lang as a pioneer of this. Lang created and designed for his fashion brand from 1986 to 2005, and in that time became revered for his minimalist and often utilitarian designs. Lang’s Bulletproof Vest that debuted in his AW 1997 collection is an example of one of his most sought-after designs. Made of goose down rather than Kevlar fibers, the vest is a prime example of transforming an object with violent connotations into a fashion statement fit for the runway. His designs changed the fashion industry, and a recent homage can be seen in Ye’s 2015 collection, Yeezy Season 1. His looks trickled into mainstream fashion, these days reflected by the revered Alyx Chest Rig (2018), and the formation of brands such as Andrea Rosso’s MYAR.
Ye (Kanye West) wearing the Alyx Chest Rig
Maison Martin Margiela and Junya Watanabe are other designers who blurred the boundaries between functional military gear and fashion at the tail end of the nineties, respectively selling their vamped-up German Army Trainers (1999) and SS 2003 Bondage Pants as re-worked luxury items. GQ Magazine documents these in their half-centenary fashion archive, and describes Watanabe’s designs as “cutting up old military garb and stitching it back together”. These present-day utilitarian fashion influences aren’t just coming from the 90s, as many of the SS 2022 runway collections can already confirm. Marc Jacobs debuted looks on the Vogue SS22 Ready-To-Wear Runway that are reminiscent of Watanabe’s Bondage Pants; ruched, baggy trousers and lots of overlapping straps.
Junya Watanabe’s ‘Khaki Bondage Pants’, 2003
Alongside military-inspired wear we’re seeing a general resurgence of this more distressed type of clothing, such as loose-knit sweaters and shrugs. I’m thinking of the Racer Worldwide Cross Net Sweaters that were sold out almost immediately following their release, or the Marc Jacobs Superstar Knit Sweater, made with a 30% mohair blend to give that fuzzy feeling. These loose knit jumpers seem to pay homage to the iconic Vivienne Westwood Loose-Knit Sweater, that was made famous by Johnny Rotten from the Sex Pistols, and Raf Simons’ famous ‘Spiderweb Sweater’ from his 1998 Radioactivity collection. The look is coming back, and Olivier Theyskens and Maison Margiela both gave us form-fitting looks incorporating layered and distressed knitwear in their Vogue SS22 Ready-To-Wear Runways.
Raf Simons’ ‘Spiderweb Sweater’, 1998
There are many reasons to explain the present-day allure of the practical, including a general cyclical 90s fashion revival that highlights brands and styles from 20-30 years ago. This, combined with a resurgence of second-hand purchasing and ‘thrift flips’ that have gained popularity in recent years due to social media trends, lend themselves to an optimistic view of sustainability as a driving force for these looks.
Colourful 'Warcore' fashion on the Runway. Looks from Junya Watanabe, Calvin Klein and Alyx. (left to right)
The alternate reasoning is not so optimistic. Seen on Vice, “Warcore” is a new subculture of streetwear that takes inspiration from Techware and Military uniforms, A.K.A dressing like a “representative of a renegade militia group”. It’s clear to see the problems this would create when worn in public, especially busy and high-density areas. Dressing in this manner also begs the question of privilege, as I don’t have to tell you how the experiences of a white male and a black male dressed equally in “warcore” would vary tremendously. Feel free to flaunt your y2k cargos, but consider toning down the military-garb look. Your style could be taken the wrong way, now more so than ever.
