The Ultimate Accessory: Turning Bags Inside Out at the V&A
Words by Florence Chadwick
The V&A has a stellar rep when it comes to fashion exhibitions; showcasing industry giants such as Alexander McQueen and Christian Dior to critical acclaim in the past few years, and they are looking to continue the trend with their latest display sponsored by Mulberry - Bags: Inside Out. Reaching as far back as the 1740s, the rise and fall of this accessory is traced alongside the growth of celebrity culture, sustainability, transatlantic travel, and identity politics. From World War Two to ‘Sex and the City’ and spanning the globe, the show is, as The Guardian eloquently put it, “totes fabulous”.
Fashion and Function
Framed initially in the first room through the lens of functionality, the first cases explored bags in relation to travel, trade and war. After mannequins showed a Victorian chatelaine and 18th century ‘pocket bags’ as a starting reference point, a projected slideshow highlighted the evolution of the handbag up to the present day as seen on the arms of political, social and celebrity icons. Items included German military backpacks, Winston Churchill’s Secretary of State to the Colonies red box and Queen Mary’s gas mask holder as well as Burmese beaded shoulder bags used for foraging in thick undergrowth (now recognised as part of their national dress) to stress bags as a necessity. A Louis Vuitton monogrammed trunk used by a prominent socialite on her many voyages, including upon the Titanic’s sister ship, Olympic, proved an interesting contrast to Hermes’ ‘Kelly’ transparent bag – a nod to travelling in the age of modern airport security.
Status and Identity
Moving onwards, the translation from function to fashion was made – now focusing on the bag as a companion and a conduit for status and identity. The opening section concentrated on the relationship between designer and muse, exploring Hermes’ ‘Kelly’ and ‘Birkin’ bags, inspired by Grace Kelly and Jane Birkin respectively, Gucci’s ‘Jackie’ after Jackie Onassis and Mulberry’s ‘Bayswater’ homage to Kate Moss to name but a few. Again, the collection segued from imperial China to tribal Rwanda to Her Majesty the Queen’s favourite little black bag. Brief references to bags in film were made but they seemed to begin and end with Carrie Bradshaw’s sparkling purple Fendi baguette bag from ‘Sex and the City’; another projected slideshow showed various clips from films revolving around bags, but they were left seemingly unattached to any specific display case. Status was further developed through a, quite literally shining, cabinet full of jewelled McQueen, Cartier and Swarovski pieces – highlighting the collaboration between jeweller and designer before moving on to showcase the relationship between designer and consumer through the transformation of simple reusable paper and tote bags to become both political and fashion statements.
The Reinvention of the Reusable Bag
Upstairs, the exhibition continued in a more technical light with a workbench with the various stages of the manufacturing process laid out accompanied by videos of Mulberry designers explaining each step. A greater emphasis was placed on materials, looking at wood, metal and the debate between plastic being luxury or cheap. Highlights included Dior’s ‘Fossil Record Lady Dior’ bag collaboration with artist Marc Quinn, based on his work ‘Fossil Record – The Age of Aluminium’, embossing the life cycle of an orchid bloom onto the front panels. Damien Hirst’s ‘Entomology’ bag in partnership with Prada was also featured - of which only 20 were ever made. The bag is made from Plexiglas set with Swarovski crystals and both real and embroidered insects. The thread of the natural world was also furthered through the brief presentation of the current dialogue between the fashion industry and issues of sustainability and included examples such as Stella McCartney’s Falabella backpack in partnership with Parley made from recycled ocean plastic and Elvis and Kresse’s reusing of decommissioned fire hose to create a weekend bag.
Bags: Inside Out
Running until the 16th of January 2022 at the V&A and with a Student Art Pass discount, its definitely worth a visit to view the curation of such a chronologically and geographically diverse collection. From necessity to style and uniting both the public and private spheres, the bag acts as both companion and conduit – perhaps after all being proven here to be the ultimate accessory. See more details here.
