Why we can all reap the benefits of slow fashion within a circular fashion economy.
Words by Chiara Baty-Cotte
Every single element of fashion is used every single day for one to express themselves. It only takes a single glance for one to calculate what kind of person someone is via the clothes they wear. But at what cost? Fast fashion has been a term ignored by many for a long time, but recently, slow fashion has really come into the spotlight, making its presence known - and the movement is spreading like wildfire.
Circular Fashion
The fashion industry has been in dire need of an overhaul to negate the ever-increasing environmental impacts on people, the planet, and animals. One of the major game changers in the sustainable fashion world lately, that is being incorporated by more and more brands is the circular economy. This innovative system demonstrates how industries can continue to grow whilst having a limited impact on the environment through rethinking business practices and shifting the focus to two top ideas: recycling resources and eliminating waste. Slow fashion refers to a more nuanced, mindful way of shopping, which prioritizes people and most importantly, the planet. That being said, fast fashion is one of the world’s top polluters. This evidently being a result of the sad reality which is the age of conscious consumerism. The fast fashion top dogs being Pretty Little Thing, ASOS, H&M, ZARA, Bershka, etc. But as slow fashion is slowly taking centre stage, consumers are also turning their heads.
From the H&M Conscious AW20 Collection
We have the lockdown effect to thank for the spread in awareness of the slow fashion movement. Consumers want to re-evaluate their approach to fast fashion in order to embrace a more sustainable process, collect more enduring pieces and curate a more capsule-based wardrobe. The Covid-19 pandemic has sown a seed of awareness about humankind’s impact on the planet and our combined responsibility to rein in over-consumption and reduce global inequalities for the benefit of future generations. People choose to ignore the sad reality of fast fashion; the low-quality garments, the environmental impact, the unethical working practices… All for a quick next-day-delivery fix. Nevertheless, fast fashion giants H&M and the parent brand of ZARA and Massimo Dutti, Inditex, have both pledged that in following years, close to 100% of all collections will be made from recycled or sustainably sourced materials.
There has also been a distinguishable change in consumers opinion on clothing, and how long they should last. A post-lockdown report for the RSA (Royal society for Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce) found that 83% of consumers surveyed thought that clothes should be designed to last longer and be repairable. Some 58% bought fewer clothes during the lockdowns, with 28% reusing and recycling more than normal. The same report found that Gen-Z’s (the 18–24-year age group at time of writing), who are generally associated with fast-fashion, wish to support socially and environmentally responsible brands. As well as this, a McKinsey & Company (an American worldwide management firm which advises corporations, governments, and other organisations) report, carried out for “The state of fashion 2020 Coronavirus update” stated that 15% of both American and European consumers expect to buy more ecologically and socially sustainable clothing as a direct result of the over-consumerism and irresponsible practices that have been thrown into light through the coronavirus crisis.
Circular Fashion Economy Diagram
Throughout the Covid-19 pandemic, many slow-fashion brands have made their mark in the fashion world. Notably British female-owned brand Charlotte Simone. This brand had to rapidly adapt to the change in the fashion climate as a result of COVID-19, and emphasizes the fact that they have a more sustainable and considered approach to fashion. Collections acting as a first-come, first-served 1 week only drop (similarly to the brand Sporty & Rich, founded by Emily Oberg). Limited quantities are made every drop, making this brand not just about the items themselves, but also the devotedness required in order to acquire one of these styles. Working with a number of London artisans for both sampling and materials reduces the brands shipping impacts and supports local businesses in and around London – see, a win-win for all.
For those who prefer not to spend such a lofty amount, the alternatives are coming in thick and fast. Think “borrowing from your sister’s wardrobe”, but as an app – laid out just as any fashion app would be – but for clothing rental. I recently rented from HURR, a fashion rental platform which boasts the likes of Charlotte Simone, Paloma Wool, Saks Potts, House of Sunny, etc. My experience was perfect, and definitely something I would do in the future. Rather than committing to a high-end item, it can be yours for less than £50 over a period of 3 days to a week, making you sorted for any occasion. This also points people in the (right) direction of a circular fashion economy, where everyone reaps the benefits of the fashion industry.
From the Charlotte Simone Fashion Week 2020 Collection
The place fashion has in the global economy is mind-blowingly big, and the fight for a circular fashion economy is one which will not be put to bed. A new textiles economy is an attractive vision of a system that works, it is aligned with the principles of a circular economy; one that is restorative and regenerative by design and provides benefits for business, society, and the environment. In such a system, clothes, textiles, and fibres are kept at their highest value during use and re-enter the economy after use, never ending up as waste. This benefits those right at the beginning of the fashion cycle, the seamstresses, the consumers, and everyone else involved. The benefits for the business itself and the economy include material cost savings and reduced exposure to resource price volatility, additional profit opportunities, and a new source of innovation. The benefits for the economy are that of having lower GHG emissions, reduced consumption of virgin, non-renewable materials and of energy. Finally, some of the benefits for citizens and society include reduced obsolescence and fewer unwanted items. Longer lasting and higher quality clothes increases convenience for those customer groups and types of garments for which clothes shopping and maintenance is considered a hassle.
So, in briefer terms, ‘circular is the new black’ – as said by Antoinette Guhl – Deputy Mayor of Paris, chief of circular economy. It has long been time for people to boycott the brands that promote negative realities for those in the fashion chain who pull the shorter straw.
